Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2022 saw some seriously blockbuster shows, from Off-White’s tribute to Virgil Abloh to Louis Vuitton’s teen-spirit spectacular and Balenciaga’s poignant snowstorm moment. But in between the big-budget productions, there were quieter moments of brilliance from rising brands, such as Botter, to schedule newcomers, like Cecilie Bahnsen. Here, 10 of the Vogue team’s favourite shows.
1/10
Botter
This season, Botter’s creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh were again inspired by their love of the sea, with the functionality of scuba-diving gear reflected in the tailoring and the use of recycled plastic collected by Parley For The Oceans. “This is an on-going story that we are telling, especially [with] the coral nursery that we started two years ago [in Curaçao],” Herrebrugh says. The accessories are always a talking point at Botter – with models coming down the runway carrying fluffy chairs this season, in reference to the plastic chairs commonly seen in the Caribbean. “Here in the West they look at [the plastic chair] like it’s a piece of trash, but where we are from it’s a necessary thing when you go to church [or] gather together,” Botter explains. EC
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Coperni
Coperni founders Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer called upon a stellar model line-up led by the Hadid sisters to debut their effortlessly cool autumn/winter 2022 collection. The buzzy miniskirts, bodysuits and futuristic accessories were made with the “new generation” in mind. Smart contemporary tailoring was a key focus and realised by women working at the Cap Est Sarl atelier in Kyiv, Ukraine. “We dedicate this collection to them,” Vaillant and Meyer told. AC
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Kenneth Ize
This season, Kenneth Ize continued to explore creating silhouettes using aso oke fabric, a signature the designer has become known for since his inaugural show in 2020 (Naomi Campbell closed it, causing quite the commotion). The striped material, which is handwoven in Nigeria, was sharply tailored into skirt suits, single-breasted jackets and mini shift dresses worn with knee-high leather go-go boots. The designer also introduced an array of textured pieces in sheer lace, suede and macramé, as well as a subtle harlequin print that’s bound to be a hit with the street-style set. AK
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Cecilie Bahnsen
It’s long been a dream for Cecilie Bahnsen to show at Paris Fashion Week – but for her runway debut in the French capital, it was also important for the Copenhagen-based designer to bring a piece of home with her. “I was drawn to the work of Tove Ditlevsens, a Danish poet that I’ve been reading since school,” she says. “As a teenager I really fell in love with her poetry about being a young woman and finding your voice as a creative; the struggle but also the beauty of that.” Bahnsen has certainly found her own voice – with her pouffy, puff-sleeved dresses fitting in perfectly at the Palais de Tokyo this season. EC
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Isabel Marant
The queen of bohemian French chic’s shows are often a harbinger of trends and autumn/winter 2022 proved that yes, slouchy over-the-knee boots will continue to be big news next season. Ditto all things baggy and low-slung. Resistance is futile, join the louche club – just keep it sexy, rather than grungy, like Marant’s girls. AN
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VTMNTS
Guram Gvaslia’s debut VTMNTS show was a celebration of genderless fashion. “I felt it was time to do things differently, and to show clothes that speak to all genders, and not merely to men or women. We are all so much more than what we are told to believe we are!” said the designer. Models walked the makeshift runway in a Monoprix supermarket with buzzcuts and mullets, teaming their co-ed pieces with one of the most popular accessories of the season: motorcycle gloves. It was a memorable moment for this sister brand of Vetements. ES
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Germanier
Kévin Germanier brought his distinctive brand of sustainable fashion to Paris this season, lighting up the runway with his Swarovski-encrusted designs and feathered hems, created using deadstock materials. “With this collection we really wanted to show the best of the best [of Germanier]. For some people it was the first time they’d been introduced to my world,” the designer says. “I wanted to have fun. My garments are made to be worn, to be seen [in]; the girls brought life to the clothes.” A new collaboration with Ugg also saw Germanier put his own spin on the Noughties classic – we wouldn’t be surprised to see the likes of Kendall and co snapping them up. EC
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8/10
Marine Serre
Instead of just hosting a show for autumn/winter 2022, Marine Serre decided to put on a two-day exhibition entitled Hard Drive in order to showcase the story behind her brand’s DNA. “I wanted to share our values, explain the processes and the core materials of the house and… additionally, render fashion accessible,” the designer explains. Her signature use of deadstock and other upcycled materials could be seen in the tartan coats, jackets and skirts this season, as well as the floral shirts and dresses made from silk scarves. EC
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Sacai
Chitose Obe never ceases to amaze when it comes to whipping up forward-thinking utilitarian separates. After spending the majority of the pandemic in Tokyo, it was clear the designer’s autumn/winter 2022 collection was an unbridled celebration of her return to Paris. Highlights included the surprising splashes of leopard print and hourglass-shaped cardigans populating her deconstructed outerwear and twists on everyday garments. ES
10/10
The Row
At first glance, The Row’s Paris Fashion Week collection – the Olsens’ first presented in France in two years – didn’t immediately spell out: The Row. Yes, the monochrome edit was as painstakingly executed as per, but it looked, dare we say, playful. The images of models wearing exaggerated collars and trailing sleeves soon became Insta gold as we all imagined ourselves doing Wednesday Addams-meets-Mary Kate and Ashley next season. Was their hyper-luxe offering still as covetable as per? Oh yes. AN
